SolidBuild sheds are made from natural, untreated European spruce. If you live where termites are active, you may want to treat the wood to keep it protected. The process is straightforward, and the timing rule is the same as for paint and stain: the liquid goes on after the shed is assembled. The one exception is brushing it on board by board as the walls go up, and only if the roof boards go on the same day. Treated boards left lying out can warp within hours.
Below is an overview of termite types by region, the treatment methods that work best for our sheds, when and how to apply them, product recommendations, and estimated costs for each shed model.
In a hurry?
The short version
Every SolidBuild shed, anywhere in the country, benefits from a borate wood treatment. In the high-risk South, add a barrier in the soil. And whatever you use, don't put liquid on the boards before they are in the walls.
Treat the wood with borate
Our number one recommendation. Bora-Care or Tim-Bor soaks into bare wood and protects it for life against termites, carpenter ants, wood-boring beetles and decay. About $15–$190 depending on product and shed size.
After assembly, not before
Just like paint and stain. Assemble the shed, roof boards included, then spray, board ends included. Or brush it on board by board as the walls go up, but only if the roof boards go on the same day. Treated boards left lying out can warp within hours.
Add a soil layer in the South
In Zones 1 and 2, a perimeter soil treatment or bait stations stops subterranean and Formosan termites before they reach the wood. Then let the borate dry 48 hours and seal it in with paint or stain.
First, the one rule that governs everything
Why the treatment goes on after assembly
There is no stud frame in our sheds. The walls are machined tongue and groove boards that stack and interlock, and they only go together cleanly if every board is straight. A liquid treatment soaks into the wood. A loose board that takes on liquid and then dries on its own, sitting in a stack or leaning against a fence in the sun, can warp within hours, and then its tongue and groove no longer line up. Professionals pre-treat boards in controlled settings; in a backyard it's a gamble.
Once the boards are locked into the walls and the roof boards are on top, the building holds every board in shape while it dries. For this reason, our paint and stain guide gives the same rule: treat after assembly. The only exception is brushing the treatment on board by board as the walls go up, treating and stacking the same day, with the roof boards on the same day too.
You don't lose anything by waiting. Borate is carried deep into the wood fibers, so treating the assembled shed inside and out still gives full protection.
Never treat the boards before assembly. Never treat boards and leave them lying out. If you treat as you build, treat and stack the same day, and don't stop for the day until the roof boards are on.
Part one
Not all termites are the same
Before you pick a treatment, it helps to know what you're up against. The United States is home to several species of termites, and the type that's most common in your area will determine the best course of action.
Subterranean termites
By far the most common and destructive type in the U.S. They live underground in large colonies and build mud tubes, small tunnels made of soil and saliva, to travel from the ground into wood structures. If your shed sits on or near the ground, subterranean termites can reach it through its foundation.
- Borate wood treatment
- Soil barrier or bait stations in high-risk areas
Drywood termites
Unlike subterranean termites, drywood termites don't need contact with the soil. They fly in, land on exposed wood, and set up colonies inside the wood itself. The colonies are smaller but harder to detect because there are no mud tubes. The first sign is usually small piles of tiny pellets (called frass) near the infested wood.
- Borate wood treatment
- A soil treatment won't stop them
Formosan termites
Sometimes called "super termites," and the nickname is well-earned. They're a subterranean species, but their colonies can contain millions of individuals, far more than native subterranean termites. They eat wood faster, cause damage sooner, and can even build secondary nests above ground inside walls if there's enough moisture. A mature Formosan colony can consume roughly 13 ounces of wood per day.
- Borate wood treatment
- Plus a perimeter soil treatment or bait stations
Dampwood termites
Attracted to wood with high moisture content: rotting logs, leaky structures, or wood sitting directly on damp soil. They're larger than other species but are less of a threat to well-maintained structures.
- A proper foundation and good drainage
- Borate wood treatment
Part two
Termite risk by region: where do you fall?
The U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development divides the country into Termite Infestation Probability (TIP) zones. This matters because it affects everything from the treatment you should choose to whether your local building department has specific termite requirements for outbuildings.
| Zone | States | Main termite types | Recommended protection |
|---|---|---|---|
| Zone 1 · Very heavy | FL, GA, AL, MS, LA, TX, SC, HI, Southern CA | Subterranean, drywood, Formosan | Borate wood treatment + soil barrier or bait stations |
| Zone 2 · Heavy to moderate | NC, VA, TN, AR, OK, MO, KS, AZ, NM, Northern CA | Subterranean, some drywood in coastal areas | Borate wood treatment + optional soil barrier |
| Zone 3 · Moderate to slight | NJ, PA, OH, IN, IL, IA, NE, CO, UT, OR, WA | Subterranean (seasonal) | Borate wood treatment (minimum recommended) |
| Zone 4 · Slight to none | ME, VT, NH, NY, MI, WI, MN, ND, SD, MT, WY, ID, AK | Minimal termite activity | Borate treatment optional, but still wise for longevity |
Tip: Even if you're in a low-risk zone, a borate wood treatment is still worth considering. It protects against not just termites but also carpenter ants, wood-boring beetles and wood decay fungi, all of which can affect a wood shed anywhere in the country.
Part three
Treatment methods for SolidBuild sheds
Now for the practical part. These are the methods that make the most sense for a SolidBuild shed kit, a manageable structure you can treat completely, inside and out, once it's assembled.
Best overall for sheds
Method 1: Borate wood treatment
This is our number one recommendation for every SolidBuild shed, regardless of where you live. Borate treatments are applied directly to the wood surface, where the active ingredient, a naturally occurring mineral salt called disodium octaborate tetrahydrate, penetrates deep into the wood fibers. Once inside, it stays there permanently (as long as the wood isn't exposed to continuous rain or ground contact), making the wood toxic to termites, carpenter ants, wood-boring beetles and decay fungi.
Here's why borate treatment is perfect for a shed kit:
- A small shed is easy to cover completely. Spray every wall board, floor board and roof board, inside and out and board ends included, right after assembly. Or, for maximum protection, brush it into the tongue and groove board by board as the walls go up.
- Borate is a mineral salt, not a synthetic chemical. It's low-toxicity to humans and pets, so it's safe in sheds you'll spend time in, like home offices, art studios or she-sheds.
- It doesn't break down over time like soil chemicals do. It lasts for the life of the wood.
- It protects against both subterranean and drywood termites, so you're covered no matter what species is in your area.
- It won't stain or discolor the wood, and you can paint or stain over it once it's dry.
Cost: $50–$200 depending on shed size and product (by model below)
- Every SolidBuild shed, in every zone
- Subterranean and drywood termites
- After assembly
- Or board by board as the walls go up, with the roof boards on the same day
- Never before assembly
Important: Borate treatments can only be applied to bare, unfinished wood. If you plan to stain or paint your shed (which we recommend for weather protection), apply the borate treatment first, let it dry for at least 48 hours, and then apply your stain or paint. The finish helps seal the borate into the wood and protects it from being washed out by rain.
Recommended borate products
Bora-Care by Nisus
The gold standard. A professional-grade concentrate you mix 1:1 with warm water and apply with a sprayer or brush. Its patented glycol formulation penetrates deeper than powder-based borates. One gallon of concentrate covers about 400–800 sq ft depending on wood porosity. EPA-registered as a primary termite treatment, and the only borate backed by a 30-year limited warranty (through participating pest control companies).
About $75–$95 per gallon of concentrate.
Tim-Bor Professional by Nisus
The budget-friendly option. A water-soluble borate powder you mix into a 10–15% solution. It doesn't penetrate as deeply as Bora-Care because it lacks the glycol carrier, but it's well suited to preventative treatment on new, dry wood, which is exactly what SolidBuild boards are. A 1.5 lb packet makes about 1.5 gallons and covers roughly 240 sq ft.
About $15–$25 per bag.
Eco-Safe Wood Guard by Tall Earth
A ready-to-use borate treatment marketed for DIY use on sheds, barns, log homes and garden structures. Non-toxic, simple to apply, and works well as a one-time preventative treatment. A good option if you want something straightforward without mixing.
About $50 per gallon.
Perimeter barrier
Method 2: Liquid soil treatment
A liquid soil treatment creates a chemical barrier in the ground around your shed's foundation. Termites that try to tunnel through the treated soil are either killed or repelled. It's specifically designed to stop subterranean and Formosan termites, which travel through the ground to reach wood.
For a SolidBuild shed, a perimeter treatment is a great complement to a borate wood treatment, especially in Zone 1 or Zone 2. Dig a shallow trench around the perimeter of the foundation, apply the liquid termiticide, and backfill.
The industry-leading product is Termidor (fipronil), used by most professional pest control companies. It works through a "transfer effect": termites that contact the treated soil carry the chemical back to the colony and spread it. A single Termidor treatment can last 5 to 15 years depending on soil conditions. Termidor is only available to licensed professionals; for DIY, Taurus SC contains the same active ingredient and works the same way.
Cost: $50–$150 DIY (one bottle of Taurus SC treats a large perimeter); $200–$500 professionally applied
- Subterranean and Formosan termites
- Sheds in Zone 1 and Zone 2
- Low-profile foundations close to the ground
- Drywood termites (they don't come through the soil)
- Sheds near wells or water sources (check the label for setback requirements)
Monitoring and colony elimination
Method 3: Termite bait stations
Bait stations are plastic cylinders buried in the ground around a structure. They contain a wood-like material treated with a slow-acting insect growth regulator (such as novaluron or hexaflumuron) that termites eat and carry back to the colony. Over time it disrupts their ability to molt, and the colony dies off. The two best-known systems are:
- Sentricon: uses noviflumuron in the "Always Active" version. Around for over 25 years and famously used to protect the White House and the Statue of Liberty. Typically installed and maintained by licensed professionals only, at $800–$1,500 to install on a home plus $200–$400 a year for monitoring.
- Trelona ATBS by BASF: uses novaluron, a newer chitin synthesis inhibitor. The "Annual" version only needs checking once a year, and it's available through DIY retailers. A box of 16 pre-baited stations runs about $350–$450; a shed needs far fewer, probably 4–8.
Cost for a shed: $80–$200 for 4–8 DIY stations
- Subterranean and Formosan termites
- Ongoing monitoring in high-risk areas
- Drywood termites (they don't forage through the soil)
Tip: Bait stations are an excellent second layer of defense, but they shouldn't be your only protection. Use them alongside a borate wood treatment, not instead of it.
Part four
When and how to apply the borate treatment
The same rule as our paint and stain guide: after assembly. For a simple garden shed, Option 1 is all you need. Option 2 is a maximum-protection extra for those who enjoy doing things thoroughly.
Recommended for most owners
Option 1: Treat after assembly
The simplest and safest approach. Build the whole shed, roof boards included, and then treat it.
Finish assembly, clean and dry
Make sure the walls, floor and roof boards are all installed. Wipe off dust and dirt with a wet rag, or hose off (never a pressure washer), and let the wood dry. Then pick a dry stretch, with no rain expected for at least 24–48 hours, so the treatment soaks in instead of washing off.
Mix the treatment
Mix your borate according to the label, for example Bora-Care 1:1 with warm water, or Tim-Bor at a 10–15% solution. Ready-to-use products like Eco-Safe Wood Guard need no mixing.
Spray or brush all bare wood, board ends included
With a pump sprayer or brush, treat the exterior walls, the interior walls, the underside of the roof boards and the floor, working from the top down. Work it into the knots, corners and board ends, where end grain drinks liquid far faster than the face of a board. Give extra attention to the starter row (the lowest row of wall boards) and the floor joists, the parts most exposed to subterranean termites.
Let it dry, then paint or stain
Wait at least 48 hours for Bora-Care (24 hours for Tim-Bor), then apply your paint or stain. The finish seals the borate into the wood and protects it from rain.
Maximum protection · only if the roof goes on the same day
Option 2: Treat board by board as the walls go up
Some European makers brush a wood preservative into the tongue and groove as the walls go up, which protects the mating surfaces that are hidden once the shed is built. Tim-Bor is one of the US products for this. Only do this if you plan to put the roof boards on the same day. Freshly treated walls with no roof on top have nothing holding the upper courses in shape while they dry, and the boards can warp.
Plan for a full assembly day
Make sure you have the time, the help and the dry weather to get the walls up and the roof boards installed in one day.
Brush each board as it goes on, then stack it
Brush the treatment into the tongue and groove of each board as you install it, and stack it into the wall right away, while the surface is fresh. Apply it thin and even: too heavy or patchy, and it can change how your paint or stain absorbs and leave uneven moisture that warps drying boards. Never treat a pile of boards ahead of time and leave them lying out.
Get the roof boards on before you stop
Install the roof boards the same day. Once the roof is on, treat the exposed faces, board ends included, as in Option 1.
Let it dry, then paint or stain
As with Option 1, wait at least 48 hours for Bora-Care (24 hours for Tim-Bor) before applying paint or stain.
If the day runs short, stop treating and finish the job after the roof is on. Untreated boards waiting for tomorrow are fine. Treated boards with no roof over them are at highest risk for warping. If in doubt, choose Option 1. Done badly, board-by-board treatment does more harm than good.
Model by model
Estimated treatment costs by shed model
One of the best things about treating a shed rather than a full-size home is the cost. You're working with a much smaller footprint, and a shed this size is easy to reach inside and out once it's assembled. Surface area estimates include walls, floor and roof boards, interior and exterior where accessible.
| Model | Treatable surface | Bora-Care (1:1) | Tim-Bor | DIY soil treatment | DIY bait stations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Shiba 8x8 storage shed 54 sq ft | ~350 sq ft | $75–$95 | $15–$25 | $50–$75 | $80–$120 (4–6) |
| Myrtle 10x10 garden shed 80 sq ft | ~500 sq ft | $75–$95 | $25–$40 | $50–$100 | $100–$150 (4–6) |
| Whales 10x10 garden shed 80 sq ft | ~500 sq ft | $75–$95 | $25–$40 | $50–$100 | $100–$150 (4–6) |
| Moderna 10x10 modern shed 80 sq ft | ~500 sq ft | $75–$95 | $25–$40 | $50–$100 | $100–$150 (4–6) |
| Gardener 10 x 10 storage shed 81 sq ft | ~510 sq ft | $75–$95 | $25–$40 | $50–$100 | $100–$150 (4–6) |
| Solana 13 x 10 modern shed 80 sq ft + 40 sq ft | ~650 sq ft incl. porch framing | $95–$140 | $35–$55 | $75–$125 | $120–$180 (6–8) |
| Aspen 12 x 10 garden shed 103 sq ft | ~600 sq ft | $95–$140 | $30–$50 | $75–$125 | $100–$160 (6–8) |
| Bristhol 13 x 11 garden shed 117 sq ft | ~700 sq ft | $95–$140 | $40–$60 | $75–$125 | $120–$180 (6–8) |
| California 13 x 11 modern shed 117 sq ft | ~700 sq ft | $95–$140 | $40–$60 | $75–$125 | $120–$180 (6–8) |
| Astoria 11 x 13 modern shed 117 sq ft | ~700 sq ft | $95–$140 | $40–$60 | $75–$125 | $120–$180 (6–8) |
| Optima 12 x 12 storage shed 136 sq ft | ~750 sq ft | $95–$180 | $40–$60 | $75–$125 | $120–$180 (6–8) |
| Washington 17 x 13 modern shed 200 sq ft | ~1,100 sq ft | $150–$190 2 gal concentrate | $60–$85 | $100–$150 | $160–$240 (8–10) |
Actual costs vary by retailer and region. If you hire a professional to treat your shed, expect to pay $300–$800 depending on your location and the treatment method.
Putting it together
What we recommend by region
In every region the borate goes on the same way: after assembly, or board by board as the walls go up with the roof boards on the same day.
Zone 1 · highest risk
Southeast and Gulf Coast (FL, GA, AL, MS, LA, TX, SC, HI)
The highest-risk zone in the country. You're dealing with subterranean, drywood and potentially Formosan termites, sometimes all three in the same yard. For SolidBuild sheds here, we recommend the full protection package:
- Borate wood treatment (Bora-Care at 1:1) on all bare wood surfaces after assembly
- Liquid soil treatment around the foundation perimeter (Termidor or Taurus SC)
- Bait stations for ongoing monitoring, especially in Formosan territory
- Annual visual inspections of the foundation and starter boards for mud tubes
Estimated total cost: $150–$400 DIY, or $400–$800 with professional application.
Zone 2
Mid-Atlantic and Southern Midwest (NC, VA, TN, AR, OK, MO, KS)
Subterranean termites are your main concern. Drywood termites are rare this far inland, and Formosans haven't established themselves significantly outside the coastal South (yet). A solid two-layer approach will keep your shed safe:
- Borate wood treatment on all bare wood after assembly (Bora-Care or Tim-Bor)
- Optional liquid soil treatment around the foundation, especially if your shed sits on a low foundation close to the ground
Estimated total cost: $75–$200 DIY.
Zones 1 to 3
Southwest and Pacific Coast (AZ, NM, Southern CA, Northern CA, OR, WA)
California is a special case. The south has both drywood and subterranean termites (and pockets of Formosan activity), while the north and the Pacific Northwest have mostly dampwood and subterranean termites. Arizona and New Mexico have arid-land subterranean termites that are active despite the dry climate.
- Borate wood treatment after assembly is essential for every shed in this region (it handles both drywood and subterranean species)
- In Southern California: add a perimeter soil treatment, just as you would in the Southeast
- In the Pacific Northwest: borate treatment is sufficient; focus on keeping the wood dry and well-ventilated
Estimated total cost: $75–$300 DIY, depending on whether you add soil treatment.
Zone 3
Northern and Upper Midwest (NJ, PA, OH, IN, IL, IA, NE, CO, UT)
Subterranean termites are present but seasonal, most active in the warmer months and less aggressive than their southern cousins. A little prevention goes a long way:
- Borate wood treatment on all bare wood after assembly. This is the minimum we recommend for any SolidBuild shed, anywhere in the country.
Estimated total cost: $50–$150 DIY.
Zone 4 · lowest risk
Northern New England and Upper Great Plains (ME, VT, NH, NY, MI, WI, MN, ND, SD, MT, WY, ID, AK)
Termite activity is minimal to nonexistent thanks to cold winters and deep frost lines. You're unlikely to have a termite problem, but a borate treatment still protects against wood-boring beetles and decay fungi, which can be a concern in wet or humid climates.
Estimated total cost: $15–$75 for a Tim-Bor or Eco-Safe Wood Guard treatment.
Beyond the chemicals
Best practices for keeping termites away
There are several common-sense steps that make your shed less attractive to termites. Many overlap with our general foundation and maintenance recommendations.
Build on a proper foundation
Never place your shed directly on the ground. A raised foundation (concrete blocks, deck blocks or piers) creates a gap between the soil and the wood, making it harder for termites to reach. Our foundation guide covers all the options in detail.
Use pressure treated lumber for the foundation
The treated wood frame between your foundation and the shed's starter boards acts as an additional chemical barrier. Termites are much less likely to eat through pressure treated wood.
Keep the area around your shed clear
Don't stack firewood, lumber or mulch against the shed walls. They attract termites and give them a direct path to the structure. Keep at least 12 inches of clearance.
Ensure good drainage
Moisture attracts both dampwood and subterranean termites. Make sure the ground slopes away from the foundation so water doesn't pool against it.
Stain or paint your shed
A good exterior finish seals the wood and reduces moisture absorption, making it less hospitable to termites and decay fungi alike. It also seals in your borate treatment, so let the borate dry at least 48 hours first. Check out our shed look ideas for inspiration.
Use landscape fabric and gravel under the shed
It prevents plant growth under the structure and keeps moisture down. It's a tip we give for foundation construction too, and it doubles as termite prevention.
Inspect regularly
Once or twice a year, walk around your shed and look at the base of the walls and the foundation. Look for mud tubes running from the ground up to the wood, small piles of pellets near the walls, or wood that sounds hollow when tapped. Early detection is the best defense.
Common questions
Termite protection questions and answers
Is SolidBuild shed wood treated for termites?
No. SolidBuild sheds are made from natural, untreated European spruce. This is by design: our wood is non-toxic and safe for any use, including children's playhouses and garden applications. Termite treatment is something the shed owner applies after purchase, based on the needs of their specific location.
Can I treat the boards before I assemble the shed?
No. Just like paint and stain, liquid termite treatment should only go on after the shed is assembled. The one exception is brushing it into the tongue and groove board by board as the walls go up, treating and stacking the same day, and only if you'll have the roof boards on that day too. Loose boards left drying in the sun can warp within hours, and then they won't fit together. Once the boards are locked into the walls and the roof is on, they hold their shape while the treatment dries. Borate soaks deep into the wood, so treating the assembled shed still gives excellent protection. See when and how to treat for the steps.
Do I need a professional, or can I do this myself?
For a shed, DIY treatment is perfectly doable, and we'd say it's the way to go for most people. Borate wood treatments and DIY bait stations don't require a license in most states. Liquid soil treatments like Taurus SC are also available to homeowners. The only product that requires a licensed professional is Termidor. If you're uncomfortable handling chemicals or want the peace of mind of a professional application and warranty, hiring a local pest control company is a fine option too.
How often do I need to re-treat?
Borate treatments are permanent as long as the treated wood is not exposed to continuous water or ground contact. Once the borate is sealed in with stain or paint, you should not need to re-treat. Liquid soil treatments last 5–15 years depending on the product and soil type. Bait stations need to be checked and refreshed annually.
Will termite treatment void my SolidBuild warranty?
No. Applying a borate wood treatment, stain or paint to your SolidBuild shed will not void your warranty. In fact, we recommend exterior finishing for weather protection.
What if I already have termites in my shed?
If you notice signs of active termite damage, such as hollow-sounding wood, mud tubes on the foundation or visible frass pellets, we recommend contacting a licensed pest control professional for an inspection. Active infestations may require targeted treatment beyond what a preventative borate application can address. Don't panic, though: because SolidBuild sheds use thick, solid wood boards, you'll likely catch the problem before there's any structural concern.
Bora-Care or Tim-Bor, which one should I use?
If you're in a high-risk termite zone (Zone 1 or Zone 2), go with Bora-Care. It penetrates deeper and offers the most robust protection. If you're in a lower-risk area and want to save some money, Tim-Bor is a solid, budget-friendly choice that works very well as a preventative treatment on new, bare wood. Both use the same active ingredient (disodium octaborate tetrahydrate); the difference is in the carrier formulation and depth of penetration.
Are there any questions left unanswered? Email us at info@solidbuildwood.com. We'll happily answer them, and add them to this list.
A friendly word before you go
A borate treatment applied once the shed is assembled, sealed in with paint or stain, is the protection we recommend for every SolidBuild shed. In the termite-heavy South, add a soil barrier or bait stations around the foundation, and check the starter boards once a year.
About this guide
These treatments are applied by you or your contractor, so always follow the label of the product you buy, and check with your local building department for any termite requirements for outbuildings.
